Fall Cleanup in the Rose Garden
The return of fall and cooler weather provides some welcome relief in the rose garden. Whereas high temperatures may have induced a brief summer dormancy, especially in hotter parts of the country, many roses put on a fantastic bloom show well into fall. However, the change in weather often brings wind and rainy conditions; the reappearance of diseases like black spot and powdery mildew provide a reminder that next year’s success depends on putting the roses to bed for the winter.
First, for all gardeners in temperate climates, it is important to harden your roses off prior to a hard frost or snowfall. Tender new growth is easily damaged by cold temperatures, so stop deadheading 8-10 weeks before frost. Instead, allow your roses to naturally develop hips (this is the fruit of the rose and provides seasonal interest). Transplanting and fertilizing should also be stopped prior to the onset of cold weather, to prevent the rose from pushing new growth. No-nitrogen fertilizers intended to promote root development, such as superphosphates, are an exception to this rule and can be applied in fall and winter.
Most important is fall cleanup of all debris around the rose bush. Many fungal diseases that affect roses can overwinter on the rose or as litter on the ground, so removing this material will reduce your problems the following spring. Rake up and destroy all leaves (but do not compost, as this could potentially spread pathogens). Clip off any diseased leaves from the bush itself – pulling leaves off can create small tears along the stem and provide an entry point for disease. Also, if rainy conditions have prevented the flowers from opening, referred to as balling, prune these failed buds off to prevent botrytis dieback.
Windy conditions may damage roses, particularly climbers. Prune any overgrowth on climbing roses and tie securely to the structure to prevent top-heavy canes from breaking in the wind. All roses should be reviewed for crossing canes, or thin canes that can whip against each other and cause stem wounds from thorns. Taller hybrid teas or shrub roses should be topped at about 4-5 feet in height to reduce windthrow risk; in colder climates, the combination of rocking in the wind with freeze/thaw cycles can actually uproot the rose from the ground.
Finally, fall is a great time to apply compost or mulch to your roses. Mulching provides valuable nutrients as well as an insulating layer that will protect your roses during cold snaps. For most areas, a 2-3” layer is sufficient. Rose gardeners in extremely cold climates may choose to “mound” compost as winter protection around the base of their roses; in the spring, spread the mulch around the bed and away from the base of the plant.
Top tall roses to 4-5 feet and thin to reduce wind damage
Before
After
Prune climbers, secure all canes
Steps to Fall Cleanup of Roses
1. Prune out any crossing or smaller canes that could be whipped around during windstorms and create stem wounds
2. Remove all top-heavy canes that could break during a windstorm (bring all canes down to a uniform height of 4-5 feet or secure to structure)
3. Remove any diseased canes (pathogens can overwinter on the stems, which are often overlooked as a source of disease)
4. Remove and destroy any diseased foliage; for best sanitation, defoliate completely and spray with lime sulfur when dormant
5. Clean all debris from base of plant (including weeds, which harbor pests like aphids and spider mites, or diseases like rust)
6. Mulch all rose beds with a quality, weed-free mulch or compost to a depth of 2-3 inches (or higher mound in cold climates)
A list of tools you will need for fall cleanup of roses:
- Good pair of bypass-style clippers
- Sharpener for your tools
- Good gloves – thorn proof are the best
- Bucket for supplies
- Debris can for clippings
- Flexible tie tape for securing plants as needed
- Disinfectant for clippers and equipment that come in contact with plants
- Rake and shovel for cleaning up debris at base of plants